When my friend Dayna messaged me earlier this year and said want to come and fastpack the Rockwall Trail July 18-21, I did not hesitate to respond with a YES!
It has been since 2019 that I towed the start line of a race, that one was the FATDOG 70mile event.
Since then a million things in life have changed including becoming a mom of two, a pandemic and my nagging injury of a Bakers Cyst, rollercoastering between being the worst it's ever been to being manageable, to having surgery.
Movement became something I was grateful for no matter what it looked like. It wasn't 100km training weeks anymore but movement was lifting weights, 10k flat runs, 1 hour hikes. It became what it could and there was enjoyment in that.
Though always longing for the LONG distance again. The big mountains and the time away from everything. So here it was presented to me a chance to complete a trail that is difficult to get permits to camp along. My GOAL was set!
Read below for packing, gear used, advice and epic shots of this amazing trail!
The Rockwall Trail is located in the Canadian Rockies and Kootenay National Park.Â
The Rockwall Trail is a 54 km (34 mile) superlative-laden feast, traversing three alpine passes through subalpine meadows and past impressive hanging glaciers. The trail's defining feature is a single, massive limestone cliff, towering in some locations more than 900 m (2,953 feet) above the trail below.
LENGTH: 34 miles / 54 km
OUR DURATION: 2 days/1 night
TYPE: Point-to-Point
START: Paint Pots Trailhead
FINISH: Floe Lake Trailhead
CAMP: Tumbling Creek
COMPLETED: July 19-20
There are two main points of entry to this trail. First option is to start at Floe Lake parking lot trailhead which is the north end of the trail. Second is to start at Paint Pots trail head, the south end.
At first our plan was to start at Floe Lake Parking lot, our campsite permit was for the Tumbling Creek Campground, approx half way into the trail.
Starting with Floe Lake gives you most of your ascending in the first half of the hike. This would make for an easier second day however some last minute advice from a friend suggested that the views of the Rockwall and surrounding mountains was ideal to start from Paint Pots. For us this was an easy change as our campsite was in the middle of the trail.
AllTrails Map CLICK HERE
We stayed in Radium Hot Springs on July 18, Thursday night. After about 8.5 hours of driving (pee breaks and food stops included) we finally arrived in Radium to a beautiful sunset, warm wind and excitement in the air. We spent the evening packing our trail packs, re organizing and some of us reorganizing again... no names mentioned, laughing and eating! A good night's sleep... we woke up at 5:00am, some of us had coffee some of us didn't... packed up the trucks and set off.
We would be doing a car drop this morning (Friday) before we started on trail. It took us about 30 minutes to drive from our hotel to the Paint Pots Trail Head parking lot.
It was a cold morning, we started in long sleeves however as usual as soon as we started moving layers were removed.
We grabbed a quick group photo, bathroom break, locked the truck and set off. Right off the start we crossed a beautiful bridge over the Vermilion River. We kept a great pace with the cool morning and flat trail.
Paint Pots to Helmet Falls Campground (Start to lunch break)
Distance:Â 14.5Â km
Elevation gain:Â 336m
Cumulative Elevation gain: 750m
Highest Point:Â 1770m for the campgroundÂ
The Paint Pots are bright pools of mineral deposits formed by an accumulation of iron oxide that rises from cold mineral springs below ground. It makes for a fascinating, orange-red hued landscape. It's a popular day hike from the parking lot being only 2kms from the trailhead and relatively flat.Â
The next stop was Helmet-Ochre Junction Campsite. We stopped here at the bridge for a quick snack and water refill. So far the day was moving along quickly and it felt like the KM's were just cruising by.Â
We pushed ahead, this section of the trail is mostly forested with peek-a-boo river scenes, some cool bridges were crossed and the elevation flowed up and down through alongside the river. So far the bugs weren't to bad...
We began to reach thick meadows and had to make sure to avoid the Hogweed. Yes Hogweed was growing throughout sections of this trail.
Hogweed is an exotic plant originating from Europe. It was introduced in the U.S. in the early 20th century as an ornamental plant, noted for its large size. Contact with the sap can cause phytophotodermatitis, in which the skin erupts in severe blisters if exposed to sunlight. Blindness can occur if the sap enters the eyes. So... we avoided contact. It was helpful to have trekking poles to help move it aside in many overgrown places.Â
Helmet Falls is spectacular, the first real epic view point along the trail for us starting from Paint Pots. When we broke out of the dense trees we were greeted by a little cabin in a flowery meadow with Helmet Falls in the background. Stunning! It was the first wow feeling for me!
The Helmet Falls campground was just on the other side of the creek. We got excited when reaching the little cabin and unloaded there only to realize... a few steps further was the campsite. This was our lunch spot. The temperature was starting to rise, humidity was setting in. The BUGS were saying hello.
Moving on from there the next campground location was the one we were staying at, Tumbling Creek. We knew we had some elevation to gain between here and there and we knew it was about 28kms total to get there... the time that transpired from when my watch said 18kms to looking in the distance for the next campground was surreal. The first 18kms went by so fast... and then all of a sudden it was as if time stood still.
Helmet Falls Campground to Tumbling Creek Campground
Distance:Â 13 km
Cumulative Elevation gain:Â 720m
Cumulative Elevation loss:Â -580m
Highest Point:Â 2230m at Rockwall Pass
From Helmet Falls we steadily made our way up to Limestone Peak. Meeting wonderful people along the way, taking photos and really just taking the time to be where we were. We weren't running, we weren't racing to meet a time cut off... this was about movement and immersing. We gained different perspectives of Helmet Falls and followed switchback trails through the forest. I really enjoyed this section as it wasnt to steep just a gradual climb. (Though my feet at this point were starting to hurt I had the wrong shoes on for this experience)
As we crested Limestone Peak Pass it was as if the world opened up. What we could see ahead was breathtaking, left us slightly speechless, it was as if this was the start of our journey. We were greeted by the ROCKWALL itself, towering glaciers, peaks and meadow traverses... we can only share with photos... though words nor photos can really share what is here.
We climbed, we rolled though wide open meadows along side mountains and hills that made me feel very tiny and slightly nervous at times. Not knowing exactly where the trail was going to take us, looking up and thinking I hope we don't have to go up there. (Transalpine Run taught us to be prepared though lol)
We passed groups who were running the route taking only 1 day as you can enter the trail and park without a permit, the permits are only for the campsites.
Hopes that camp was soon arriving started when we descended about 300m to reach a body of water... name unknown but it was a beautiful Glacier lake that just sat beneath the towering walls of rock. We took a few moments here to rest, look, listen.
Our surroundings, the landscapes only got better from here. Each small section so unique and so spectacular. We continued up the trail, some real climbing started as we made our way up from the lake. I love rocky sections and this was a treat! When big rocks make you look like an ant... AMAZING!
Climbing continued... throughout this climb I really began to feel some fatigue, my mental endurance abilities started to kick in... we were approaching 7.5hours on foot and my right achilles was hurting quite a bit, this was an issue that said hello about 2 weeks before this trip. I knew it was a descent into camp so my mind had played a trick on me thinking we were much closer to camp then my watch made out. But non the less what we had just descended we needed to climb back out of.
Eventually the trail leveled out and we followed this epic single track trail along patches of snow and wildflowers for about 3.5kms. There were more glacier lakes, we were towered on both sides by the Rockwall Peak which sits at 2979m tall, Mount Drysdale at 2932m tall and Drysdale NE4 at 2531m tall. The Washmawapta Icefield connecting all of them on the west side.
We moved forward in gratitude, aw and for myself I can say I really took it all in.
We finally reached about 26kms and started to descend. Switch back after switch back until we reached the bottom... 300m down... it felt like so much more than that.
While descending the switchbacks my feet took a turn again declining in their health. I felt a couple of blisters pop on my heels, my toes started to hurt pretty bad. I just let that sink in. We arrived into camp, not picky about where our campsite was at this point just wanted to take the shoes off. We wandered around for a few minutes and found two tent platforms next to each other and a lovely distance from the washroom. (nice and close)
I knew going into this weekend that I wasn't wearing the best option for shoes, I was just trying to keep costs as low as possible and had made the decision to wear what I had, deal with what came with that.
I was wearing a pair of Hoka Maffates, which are a great shoe, they are just not my long distance shoe. I would normally be wearing Altra Olympus shoes, but mine had gotten pretty old I needed new ones and was avoiding spending another $230.00 so blisters and cramped toes it was.
We arrived into camp after 9.5hours on trail. It was about 5:45pm
Arriving to camp:
- Take the shoes off - I opted to skip carrying a "camp" shoe or sandal so I walked around it a pair of socks.
- Put on the bug head net
- Set up the tent
- Change into night clothes (long johns and base layers)
- Remove our packs, food and scented items from the area
- Take our supplies to the bear lockers
- Eat all the food!
- Lay in the tent and watch the bugs try to get in.
- Laugh and laugh.
We were warned and had read in trail condition updates that porcupines were frequenting this camp at night. Anything left outside the tent was getting chewed up. Don't leave your boots, shoes or packs outside! We didn't end up seeing any porcupines... tear.
As we lay in our tents trying to fall asleep thunder rolled over head. We had a few rain drops but nothing enough to stay wet. There was a storm in the forecast and in the mountains the clouds and weather can always roll in unexpectedly. The thunder was close and then made its way east. It lasted for about an hour. We knew that this storm was not good news, though at the time were thankful it didn't downpour.
Sleeping in the fresh air is always incredible. We woke up around 5:30am as our goal was to be out on trail again by 7:00am. We knew we had a longer day 2 ahead of us for time. We had two large passes to climb up and over so we anticipated about 11-12hours on foot.
I spent about 15 minutes taping toes and heels with KT tape to try and help with today's potential blisters. Before leaving on this trip I had talked to my physio, Victoria from Fusion Physio, bout my achilles and she made a little "donut" for me to bring and tape on if needed. This is cut from a small piece of thin foam like material, it fit right over the bump on my right heel. The idea is that the friction of my bump or heel spur was eliminated because the material from the donut created a cushion around it. I put it on and from the first step that day it was a feeling of relief. Much of the pain was gone.
We ate breakfast, oatmeal and coffee. We filled our water bladders with filtered water from the nice cold creek. Packed up and set off. Shoulders were a little tender getting the pack back. My pack weighed 21lbs at the start of the first day. With some food gone, but then I took the tent poles... was probably round the same, maybe 20lbs. Light in comparison to the 40lbs carrying my 3 year old and water up trails.
We first headed out in the wrong direction, back up the way we came down haha... good morning. After re setting ourselves correctly on the trail we cross a bridge... and then started to climb. Speaking for myself the legs and everything were feeling good. There is no suffering when mountains like this are surrounding you, and no race so we could keep an easy pace.
Tumbling Creek to Numa Creek - is where we were headed. Numa Creek would be our next eating spot and water refill.
Distance:Â 7.8Â km
Cumulative Elevation gain:Â 380m
Cumulative Elevation loss:Â -730m
Highest Point:Â 2233m at Tumbling Pass
Tumbling pass was incredible! I do have to say I am glad we were headed in this direction because wow that was a climb. Knowing we had two large passes to climb today was okay. Once we were making our descents I could not have imagined doing them in the other direction.
The descent from Tumbling Pass to Numa Creek was stunning. It went from single track switchbacks to open scree with a fast flowing creek to cross, to very overgrown shaded forest trails. We had one large creek to cross which we had read in trail conditions was fast flowing, however by the time we arrived it wasn't to bad, though I can see the potential danger of this crossing weeks or even a week earlier as it's not a flat crossing. The water is melting from the glaciers above and running down the side of the mountain.
Before entering the forested area you can see for miles and miles down the valley. I found myself again looking ahead for the highest point mentally preparing to go up and over it. The bugs picked up on us again once we entered the overgrown areas. We pressed on one foot in front of the other until reaching Numa Creek Campground where we stopped for water refill and some real food. We spent about 30 minutes here, took our packs off, piled the bug spray back on, ate and relaxed knowing as soon as we left this camp we were on our way to our climb the biggest pass. It was very hot out, very humid at this point in the day.
Numa Creek to Floe Lake - We had planned to stop at Floe Lake for a swim on our way out today.
Distance:Â 9.5Â km
Cumulative Elevation gain:Â 820m (plus an extra 120m at the pass if you fancy it)
Cumulative Elevation loss:Â -320m
Highest Point:Â 2340 m at Tumbling Pass
The bugs from Numa Creek to Floe Lake were the worst they had been on the entire trail, at least for me. We noticed they would bounce between us so while one of us was in agony a few others weren't. At this point my body was still feeling good, I had been fueling well and was fine for energy, my feet were in bad shape but thats okay I could still move. We slowly started to gain elevation out of Numa Creek, through meadows, towering walls of rock. We took quick stops at each creek we crossed to soak our heads, buffs, water down our arms and hats. I don't know exactly how hot it was but it was HOT. Keeping cool while fueled was a top priority.
And from here we just climbed. Parts we had our heads down, in that zone of forward movement, other parts of course taking in all that surrounds us. Conversation was helpful in passing the time as the trail became many switchbacks within forested areas. And then all of a sudden the trees thin and we can see how high up we are. We can look behind us and see where we came from. It looks so far in the distance.
This is when and where we started to notice the smoke. The thunder and lighting that had rolled over the previous night had started some fires. Which we learnt later ended up in Jasper.
Once we passed through the green larches the trail opened completely to Numa Pass. We took a few minutes at the very top of Numa pass to look down at Floe Lake and to look behind us. To see where we came from. It was starting to feel like we made it, though there was so much trail left. But I was excited to know that it was all downhill from here. Again i'll just mention the bugs... the horse flies at this elevation were relentless. They were biting through tape and clothing. The black flys seemed like friends and the mosquitos were event better in comparison.
Their relentlessness started to weigh on me and I was a grumpy! Bug grumpy is different then hangry also just FYI.
Here is grumpy me.
Soooo Floe Lake is beautiful. Bright blue, turquoise glacier lake with Foster Peak (3204m) and Floe Peak (3006m) towering over it. For me it was lucky that Floe Lake is so beautiful... it felt like a forever grumpy decent down to it. The narrow single track trail which is cut deep into the ground in most sections is difficult to walk through. We stay on trail of course as not to disrupt any surrounding vegetation but made for a uncomfortable decent.
Arriving at Floe Lake was the reset I think we all needed. Packs off, some food, a swim in the lake. Penny was straight in for a swim. Then Dayna followed... it didn't take much convincing for me to say F* my feet, I am here now I want to swim! I was feeling afraid to get my feet wet and didn't want to take my shoes off to deal with taping etc. I went in with my shoes on
The cold water reset us, it actually made my feet feel so much better and after about an hour of snacking, resting and cooling down we were ready to press on to finish.
Floe Lake to the trail head. (Finish Line)
Distance:Â 10km
Cumulative Elevation gain:Â 170m
Cumulative Elevation loss:Â -800m
Highest Point:Â 2045m Floe Lake
We had a short little climb out of the campsite area until we started our final descent. Feeling refreshed, new energy had filled us we shuffled our way down. The bugs had subsided and the focus was on stayed hydrated and moving. As we made our way down I made sure to look around and behind at times. I wanted to capture perspective from every angle and just because we were on our way out in the final 10kms didn't mean that we were done, nor that our surroundings were any less significant.
We started to enter incredible fields of wildflowers that towered beside us. We were also getting views of forest fire damage from the 2017 Vermont Creek forest fire that came very close to Floe Lake.
The way down from Floe Lake felt like it was soo long. Time slowed down and the kms just went by so slowly. Knowing the end is near mentally can be difficult so I tried to stay present and focus on eating a bit and staying hydrated. We crossed more water sources. Looking through the valley ahead of us it felt like one rolling hill after the other would show the parking lot but it never did. HWY 93, somewhere below, did not show itself until we eventually rounded the base of the mountain, which then gave us a few more switchbacks to go down. Now we were on a mission to finish in time to make it back to town for a restaurant and FOOD. It was beautiful though, as the sun crested the mountain behind us, the colours turned from vibrant to deep.
I kept looking at the creamy blue river below. The Vermilion River, which we eventually crossed over a few hundred meters before the parking lot.
The last 10kms out from Floe Lake was a combination of steep switchbacks to flowy rolling hills. We eventually reached the parking lot with a total of 11hours to the day. We were all very hungry, in need of a burger and fries!
With some high fives and hugs we checked off another incredible adventure. We were lucky to be traveling as a group of friends with two vehicles as this is a point to point trail, requiring a car drop. Some people without this option were trying to hitch rides along the HWY to even start their hike at this late afternoon time.
We picked up our cars, headed back to our hotel in Radium Hot Springs unpacked. Some went out for dinner, I stayed behind to mend my feet, shower and my amazing friends treated me to french fries to go! Enjoyed from the vertical position in the hotel bed.
Logistics and Gear.
We drove up to Radium Hot Springs from Surrey/Chilliwack on July 18. It took about 8.5-9h to get to Radium, with a food stop in Kamloops and a few bathroom breaks. We drove HWY 1 through Kamloops to Revelstoke to Golden, then switching to the 95 heading south to Radium.
We were Fastpacking this trail which means we carried pack sizes 30-35L weighing from 20-30 pounds. Because we went as a group of 5 we were able to share gear such as tents and tent poles, stoves and fuel and water filtration. This helped distribute weight amongst us.
My pack weighed in at 21 pounds on the first morning.
My shoes were not my normal long distance shoes. I needed a new pair of Altra Olympus but again was trying to not spend another $230.00 before leaving so I wore an older pair of Hoka Maffete's. For me I need a wide toe box, Altra Olympus is my go to shoe, has been for years so this was just my bad. I bet my foot experience would have been 99% better had I just bought a new pair.
In my pack was:
Pack: Osprey womens Tempest Velocity 30Â
- I highly recommend this pack. I wore a size XS/S, I am 5'6 130lbs I have a shorter torso. I loved the snug fit, the pockets on the waist belt. The stretchy pockets/fabric on the sides, front and shoulder straps. This allowed for water flacks, phone, snacks and bear spray. Anything beyond 1-2 nights I would probably go with a 35-40L size pack. I had some some single days with this pack to try it out which included running and it felt great.
Sleeping Bag: MEC Women's down bag 0 degrees
Sleeping Pad: Thermarest Trail Scout
Stove: Jetboil MiniMo
Jacket: MEC Women's down jacket, they no longer make it. Too bad it's awesome and folds into itself.
Water Filter System:
- Katadyn BeFree MicroFilter - handy for quick river stops.
- Platypus GravityWorks Filter System 4.0
First Aid Kit: Medical Kit 5 (with added personal touches)
Base Layer Bottoms: MEC T3
Base Layer Top: Smartwool Merino 200 Crew
Poles: Black Diamond Carbon ZÂ
Tent: Our tent was a Mamut 2 person purchased years ago - comparable tent Big Anges Copper Spur HV UL - 2 person
Other items: Bear spray, salt pills, gum, whistle, rain poncho (instead of a rain shell jacket to save weight and space), a knife, calories, bug head net, tail wind electrolyte powder, socks, gloves, fuel, a very light windbreaker jacket (white bunched up), one change of clothes for day 2, hat, sunscreen, bug spray, food from the fridge = veggies samosas, 1 small plastic cup used for coffee and oatmeal, two dehydrated food packs = regret they are never good and it's hard to find ones that are vegan or vegetarian, the Pad Thai Backpackers Pantry one was not good. Remember there are no garbage cans out there you pack out what you pack in... so I had to pack out this not eaten meal.
Trail/Experience Rating - WOULD HIKE AGAIN... ACTUALLY would run next time.
- This trail is tough, but there are so many water sources that it takes out the element of logistically planning water sources and worrying when you might find some.
- Dogs are allowed on trail because of the amount of water available.
- The views are beyond epic.
- The campsites are well kept.
- The bugs were bad but the views were better.
- Downfall - booking campsite permits is tough.
- The trail conditions were not that technical, more buffed single track.
- Can do it in 1 day, 2 days or more. We made this trip 4 days total with a day of driving on either side.